Hi, it’s Mandi! Are you as picky about your furniture as I am? I’m generally looking for a really specific width, height, shape, function, and design. Oh—and cost! Normally I end up compromising on at least a couple of these things (generally function—oops!), but I do not know why, since it truly is so fulfilling and not also difficult to just make your own furnishings!
Thismidcenturypresent day-inspiredsidetable is only moderately hard to develop, so it’s a verygood venture for novice woodworkers who are hunting to kick it up a notch. You have a lot of alternatives to customize this table to match your very own needs (coffee table, evening stand, side table), and of course you can use various joinery methods, even though I opted for a fairly simple pocket-hole approach which I’ll present you in the measures under.
-24″ x 48″ edge glued whitewoodboard minimize into two pieces – $ thirty
-one 1×3 maple board minimize to 1 24″ piece and two 23 five/8″ pieces – $ 8
-four tapered table legs (I like the 16″ ones as identified on this Etsy shop as opposed to these thinner, although much less expensive, Waddell legs.) – $ 20-$ 60
-4 angled leg plates (like these) – $ ten
-pocket-hole screws (you will use about 16 of a $ four pack of a hundred) – $ .75
-wood stain (you will not even use one/eight of a $ 6.50 quart.) – $ one
-one hundred and 180 grit sandpaper ($ three for a pack of five—this undertaking uses around 2 every) – $ 2.75
-steel wool grade 0000 ($ three for a bag I utilized about one/8 of the bag) – $ .50
Total Price of Resources: $ 75*
*Value is rounded up from the average value of resources mostly purchased at Lowes.
-pencil and massive compass or homemade compass (as explained in step two)
-pocket-hole jig with step bit and driver (This kit is nice)
-jigsaw with a clean cutting wood blade
Step A single:Mark the center of every of the 24″ pieces of the edge glued white wood board. This is in preparation for drawing the circle.
Step Two: Draw a 24″ circle making use of a homemade compass with a tack and string like the one I madehere, or for a far more precise circle, drill two holes 24″ apart in a piece of scrap wood—one hole the dimension of a pencil, and one the size of a wood nail. Do not be concerned if your circles are not specifically 24″ in diameter, however each circle must be the exact same size.
Stage Three: Clamp the board down to a table and cut out the circle with a clean cutting wood blade. Change the board and clamps as you go around the circle.
Optional Methods: If you have a router, then you can get a perfect circle with no the concentrate essential by hand cutting with a jigsaw. Here’s how:
Roughly cut out the circle you drew in phase three, leaving about a 1/eight” or one/sixteen” border about the line of the circle. Flip the router into a compass by clamping a piece of scrap plywood to the router bottom. Initial, put together the plywood by cutting it into the tapered shape you see above. Then drill a hole sized to the router bit, and 24″ away, drilling a hole that will snugly match a wood screw. Make positive the wood screw is not thick adequate to pierce by way of the flip side of the wood circle you are cutting.
Following the plywood is screwed onto the router bottom, place a nail through the tiny hole and secure it to the center mark of the circle. Swing the router all around like a compass to reduce out a perfect circle!
Sorry I never have far better images of this. It took two people to reduce the circle—one man or woman to hold the nail in spot in the center of the router compass whilst simultaneously holding the circle firmly, and the other man or woman swinging the router all around. Following time I cut a circle, I’ll have a third man or woman close to to get a picture so you can check out this method in a lot more detail.
Phase Four: Sand down all of the wood pieces, generating certain the edges of the circle are really smooth. If your circles aren’t exactly 24″ in diameter, you will also need to somewhat trim down the three pieces of maple 1x3s so they don’t hang over the edge of the circle. Lay the boards in an X on prime of the circles to make positive they are the precise length.
Step 5: Drill pocket holes into the 1x3s so you can attach them to one of the circles. The placement of the pocket holes is up to you, but I did two holes on both side and end of each and every leg of the X. Make positive the length of the jig, collar on the step bit, and length of your screws are set so that the screws do not poke by way of surface of the wood when they are screwed into place. Practice on two pieces of scrap lumber to make confident the positions are alright. This is an important step—so practicing is very critical!
Phase Six: Clamp the X onto the wood circle and drill the pocket screws into location with the driver that came with your pocket-hole kit.
Phase 7: Brush all of the wood with stain and wipe off the extra stain. I did two coats of stain on my pieces.
Step Eight: In between coats of stain, use steel wool to sand down the minor wood hairs that will pop up. This will make the surface silky smooth. If you make a decision to seal the table with polyurethane (anything I usually like to do so my visitors do not have to fear about coasters), then you should do two coats of polyurethane, sanding with steel wool in in between and after every coat has cured.
Methods 9 & 10: Attach the bottom circle to the middle X-supports by clamping it into location and utilizing wood screws to drill by way of the circle and the X. Use a countersink bit following drilling a pilot hole. This will make positive the screw sits flush with the surface of the wood.
Phase Eleven: Attach the screw plates in line with the X-frame. I placed the edge of my leg plate three one/two” from the edge of the table. Before drilling pilot holes, mark the length of the screws with masking tape on your drill bit. End drilling when the tape will get to the surface of the wood.
Stage Twelve: Screw the table legs into the leg plates. Keep screwing so that the bolts on the table legs go into the wood.
It really is truly important that you mark the stopping factors prior to drilling into the table. If you drill also far, you could end up with holes on the surface of your table. If that does take place for some purpose, you can fill the hole with stainable wood filler, then refinish that section of the table.
Hiding the Pocket Holes: For the most component, the pocket holes are not noticeable in the table. If you get down low—to get a picture of your dog, for instance—you’ll see the holes are there. If this bothers you, you can plug these holes before staining the table. You can get maple plugs exclusively for pocket holes right here. Just use wood glue, tape them into area, wipe away the extra glue, then sand and stain as typical.
Creating your very own furniture might seem to be super intimidating at initial, but if you consider things slow and focus on 1 phase at a time, before you know it you’ll have a great piece of furniture in your residence that you have produced by yourself! It’s this kind of a fantastic feeling.
If soon after my encouragement you happen to be nonetheless nervous about starting up a undertaking like this, why not request a pal to assist you? If he or she is experienced—great! If not, then it’s nonetheless great to have someone alongside of you to check your measurements and support hold factors. You can learn with each other! But if you do commence out on your furnishings-creating journey with an experienced craftsman, be sure to do most of the perform your self with his or her advice. Performing it oneself will assist you retain what you find out. Now just get out there and make one thing! You will not regret it. -Mandi
Credits // Author and Photography: Mandi Johnson. Pictures edited with Spring and Valentine of the Signature Collection.